Alternatively, you can choose to use certain brands of coco coir pellets that don’t come with netting. So, to avoid the risk of root damage, I removed the netting entirely even before using these pellets. Some have even found out that the netting won’t actually degrade in potting soil as fast as they would like, and suggest that you remove the netting prior to transplanting. But gardeners have mixed opinions about root growth in peat pellets. The netting is also supposed to be easily degradable and won’t affect root growth. Most websites say that you don’t need to remove the netting as it also serves to give structure to the pellet when in use. The peat pellets that I use look like dry, round biscuits with a thin netting covering them. Both types look almost alike and generally work the same way. Seed starter pellets come in two types – peat and coco coir. This greatly reduces the risk of transplant shock.Īs of this writing, the plants are still doing well. One great advantage of using these pellets is that you can place the whole pellet with the seedlings into the potting mix straight away, without disturbing the fragile roots. Transferring your seedlings to pots is very easy with seed starter pellets. I planted the rest into proper pots as seen below. I put the unsprouted seeds aside, in case they just need a bit more time. Seedlings ready to be transferred to proper pots.īoth types of chilli seeds and the red zinnia started sprouting at about the same time, but the mixed zinnia seeds showed no change. The chilli seeds were taken from the fresh fruit, the zinnia seeds from seed packets. Above and below pictures show the result after nearly two weeks. I bought some and used them to try to germinate chilli, Thai chilli and red and mixed zinnia. Some time ago, I came across peat starter pellets at the supermarket. After a couple of days, the seedlings just died – all of them. Even then, this process seemed to stress the baby plants. When the seedlings were about 2 cm tall, I pulled them out and transferred them into pots gently one by one. I had a bit more success with this method – a higher germination rate. Then I tried sowing some more tomato seeds in empty egg cartons filled with potting mix. But when I transferred them to potting mix, none survived. At first, I put about a dozen tomato seeds from a seed packet, on moist kitchen towels which I kept in plastic containers. So to avoid disappointment, I tried germinating seeds in several ways. Then you have decide whether to just let it grow, or pull it out and start afresh. Or you see only one miserable seedling in that whole big pot. I’ve experienced this, when, after going through all the trouble, several pots just did not show any signs of growth, even with daily watering. If you plant them directly into their intended pots, you might get sorely disappointed if some seeds don’t grow at all. Then there is the problem of choosing where to sow the seeds. But seeds from, say, green vegetables, need to be purchased in packets most of the time. Seeds taken from fresh fruit are easier to germinate, not to mention being more readily available ( see my bell pepper plants). A lot depends on the viability of the seeds and growing conditions, especially if you are using dried seeds from packets. In the first place, there is no guarantee that all of the seeds that you sow will actually germinate. Growing plants from seeds can be more satisfying than buying whole potted plants from the garden shop, but it can be a bit more challenging and requires a lot of time, resources and patience.
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